Here is how to wax your surfboard in 6 steps.
First step: Gather the supplies
Wax is not a commodity of one type, so be very attentive what you buy. There are various waxes depending on where you are going to surf and the physical environment. The water temperature determines the kind of wax you want to buy for your top coat. You should use raw wax in warm water at high rising hot temperature.
You are looking for a smoother wax with a higher melting temperature in colder climates. If you don’t use the right surf wax, you’re gliding around the area. You just need to follow some steps for this and the items will be bar of tropical water wax, bar of temperature appropriate wax, plastic scrapper, liquid wax dissolver.
Second step: You have to clean your board
Place your board about 5 minutes in-front of the sun with wax. Using the thin wax or plastic scraper hand, Make your board long straight lines up and down, until your surf wax has been removed. Use a liquid wax remover to remove the excess wax if you don’t have enough sun to help melt your old wax
Third step: Go for base coat
When necessary, you may want to add wax indoors. The friction that you produce during waxing causes heat that can smooth your wax when you try to apply it in direct sunlight. There are two waxing schools of thought — the circular method and the cross-method. Circular movement waxing can be a little tougher to continue. I assume, however, that waxing in small circles leads to frequent wax bumps. The criss-cross approach is certainly the best way to go and that is why most traveling professionals who go through tens or hundreds of boards per year do it. It’s a good or bad way, either way, rather than a right or a wrong way. Then take a cosy seat, put your knee on the board and brace for some elbow work.
Hold your wax bar so that the thinner side of the board touches. Using “very light friction,” you continue rubbing the wax in tiny circles — advancing gradually down the board deck with each new circle. Always know, this is only a base coat; at this stage you would not like much more than a thin layer of wax.
Continue placing wax in circles on the board until you have covered the rail to rail deck in areas where you are going to put your feet and where you’re going to place your hands. It may mean the entire longboard deck. On a short board, that may involve covering both the middle and the tail about two feet. When you get some pressure dings that are not waxed, use the bar corner as a marker and get the wax to go.
Keep the wax bar so that the thinner side touches the board. Draw long diagonal lines across your board’s deck at the “hot friction” areas, and where you can put your hands when you stand up. It could mean diagonal lines are made for a longboard around the entire deck.
When you don’t use a pad, it may be to cover the middle of the board by 2 feet and the tail. If the cross-hatch done, fill the squares with circular motions that are “very small.” If you have any pressure dings that are not filled, use the corner of the wax to remove them.
Fourth step: Build the top coat
If you have a cross-hair, please fill the squares with circular movements that are “very small.” Use the corner of the wax to eliminate any pressure dings that are not filled. The aim is to create as many small bumps as possible through small pressure and even waxing movement. You want to wear wax on the top coat about twice as much as you did on the base coat. Once your board is good and covered, it’s a formal excuse not to surf. So go out! Get out there!
Each time you paddle out, you may want to rub your feet on fresh wax. In the first few surfs after a fresh sheet, add only a very thin sheet to “refrigerate” and retain strong grip. However once you have a strong coating, with your wax combs you can scrape crosslines to reveal fresh wax for good grip. And if you’re without a wax bar or a shampoo on the sand, don’t fret. Take the knee and fill your wet-board with a handful of sand to elevate the surface.